Cruising the Rade d'Hyeres

After a couple of days in the anchorage we found in Porquerlloes (now nick named pork rolls by Helen) a strong NW got up which the anchorage was open to and it was forecast for overnight; so, after an abortive attempt to get into the nearby marina, we anchored in a bay behind Giens along with a load of other boats.  The strong wind disappeared not long after we got into the anchorage so that was a blessing.  The next day we sailed round the coast of the bay to a little bay which we really like as an anchorage and are back for our third night after a sail round Cap Benat and back which was ruined by the wash from all the power boats - at times it was like the Solent in a force 6 without the wind.

We have now had 6 nights on the boat since leaving Frioul (and not been off the boat other than for swims).  We still have about 4 days water and plenty of fuel but are out of fresh food as we had not anticipated being on the boat quite so long without shopping.  We are not sure what we are going to do next as it depends on the weather but aim to stock up so that we have the option of heading for Corsica or the Balaerics if we get a good weather window.

Heading to the Porquerolles

We spent more time in Marseille because of strong wind warnings for a number of days, which also means nasty seas.  The meteo got it right as when we got the ferry back one of these days the water was going over the bow of the ferry and clear back to its stern, 24m back, as it punched out into the waves.  Being warm water it was not a hardship but we were glad not to be at sea.

We left Port Frioul on the 11th August with the intention of sailing straight through to the Porquerolle islands.  However, the initial NW 2-3 died away until we were motoring as we approached Cap Sicie so we ended up anchoring for the night on its East side were a small number of other boats were anchored, a real find.

We had a couple of notable events on the trip: a swordfish jumping out of the water nearby and a helicopter with 'Marine' written along the side circling very low around us before hovering behind a boat going the other way.  We assume it was an arranged practise!

As we got close to the Porquerolles the number of yachts and motor boats we saw increased dramatically; it would appear to be a major destination for yachties and all the anchorages were very packed.  Fortunately, the coast here is different to that south of Cap Sicie and we are able to get into shallow water and anchor where the other yachts can not get (we just have to wait for the day trip motor boats to go at the end of the day if space is short when we arrive).  The downside to being here is the wash all the motorboats blasting around create.  The water is warm and clear so we have been enjoying swimming and being able to see where we have dropped the anchor and how it has set.

Visiting Marseille

We ended up spending 3 days visiting Marseille and got a 48 hour city pass which worked out as good value as it gave reduced or free admission to a large number of things as well as free use of public transport. We managed to get internet access via our MiFi sorted out (the magic was finding the correct APN) and new tyres for Helen's brompton.  We now have access to 3 different mobile phone networks which has paid off as coverage varies between them.  Unfortunately the battery on my spare phone died so we have to swop SIMs if we get desperate.

The two highlights were the Beux Arts exhibition of impressionist era paintings (though the paintings we have liked most are still the ones in the exhibition we saw in Sete) and visiting Le Corbusiers' City Radieuse.

Roof top of the City Radieuse

We were fortunate to be able to visit 2 of the cells (flats) in the complex as well as wander around it.  The cells are compact with amazing attention to detail, especially in how people would live in them: for instance the windows on to the balcony are designed in such a way as when they are closed they double as a seat.

We climbed up to La Garde, the Catherdral overlooking the Marseille, which gives spectacular all round views.

Friouls and Ile d'If from La Garde

Looking North from La Garde

The wackiest thing we saw was the pink dolphins in the pool at the bottom of the palace that is now the arts museum on one side and the natural history museum on the other, reminded us of our friend Mitch's pink flamingos, but we suspect these are not lit.

The Friouls

On a recommendation from Nautiland in Gruissan we moored in Port Frioul rather than going into Marseille.  This turned out to be a good move as when we went into Marseille the port was packed and noisy so we had quiet evenings, cheaper mooring and a pleasant ferry ride if we wanted to go into Marseille.

Port Frioul is an old navy harbour created by building a seawall between the 2 islands.  As the islands are immediately off Marseille and are wind and sun blasted their main use appears to have been military and they are covered with fortifications dating from the late 1600s to WW2.  The other main use was as a quarantine island.  All around the islands are small bays (calanques) and people come out from Marseille to spend the day there either on their own boats or the via the ferry. The pictures below are from a walk on our first evening after most people had left.

Unusually, we had an alongside mooring; but this was because we were a catamarran, all the other moorings are stern to except on the North side of quai 1 which appears to be for large boats or overflow.

Photos and update to Marseille

Photo below is just after launching in Gruissan with new bow beam and netting and the passarelle for getting ashore (a ladder with a plank on it and wheels at the dock end).

Gruissan with new bow beam, netting and passarelle

After Gruissan, where we had 3 days at anchor in the outer harbour waiting for the window to improve, we had a fast reach to Sete where we visited a fabulous impressionist exibition at the the Paul Valerie museum.

on visitors pontoon in Sete Marina

Bit of a squeeze getting in and out of the Marina and a lot of wash from fishing boats but a very pleasant town to stop in with fantastically fresh fish available.

From Sete we wanted to go direct to Marseille but the wind was on the nose so we ended up in Sainte Maries, a very pleasant old fishing village in the Camargue.  Very flat wetlands all around which is not our cup of tea so one bike ride was enough and we left as soon as the wind served.  For once we were not the most unusual boat in the harbour as a proa arrived whilst we were there.

Camargue flamingos

After some initial motoring we had a spinnaker reach from Saint Maires in the Camargue to Marsellie which was fabulous.  The weather is still unsettled (that means high liklihood of strong winds) so we are still in Marseille being tourists which we are enjoying a lot.

We are back in the water and have left Gruissan after sitting out strong winds for 3 days at anchor in the lagoon.  We visted Sete which we liked a lot; a fishing port full of canals in which we discovered a fabric shop shop where we got some material for a light weight awning. Currently we are in Saint Maries in the Camargue and contemplating where to go next.

Getting ready to go off again

We aim to be off sailing again as soon as possible after Helen finishes work in July.  We went down to the boat in April to get her ready and to fit proper bow and stern netting to make it easier in the Med for bow and stern too moorings (something that would not have figured much in our original plans).  No definite plans yet on where we will go but the basic options are Greece or Spain via the Balearics (we are told there are plenty of anchorages in the Balearics).

Picture above is of the new netting beam and netting in the bow.  Unfortunately the roller reefing is in a direct line between the existing anchor roller and a putative roller on the netting beam so we are going to make a removable flap in the netting to allow the anchor to be deployed from the existing roller and see how we get on.