In Toulouse at the end of the Canal Lateral de Garonne

Got to Toulouse today and moored in the Port de l'Embouchure which is a
basin where the canals joined each other. The basin is surrounded by
busy roads and it is the first time we have been subject to traffic
fumes for a long time.
We have had consistently hot and sunny days since leaving Pont de Sables
with what we suspect is a thermally driven wind getting up during the
course of the day, though only one day has it been strong.
We have enjoyed short stops at several towns on the way but the best was
Moissac which has a fascinating church and interesting architecture as
well as a market and good shops (though the market was way short of the
standard set by Rochefort).
Getting here has not been as relaxing as we had hoped as the combination
of our width plus strong side currents from the sluices near each lock
entrance has made getting into the locks a fraught procedure but exiting
has been easier; as a result we are a bit concerned about how we will
get on with the Canal du Midi locks which are 40cm narrower (5.6m as
opposed to 6m). The frequency of locks and narrow bridges means that we
have not had much time to do jobs unless they are quick to complete or
can be left off when a bridge or lock hoves into view.
The other downside I have found is that you are travelling slowly
through very similar countryside most of the time with little to catch
your eye, which gets very monotonous unless you focus on the detail of
what is happening on the canal banks and in the canal.

Back on the move

Saturday was a cool (18 degrees) and wet day so not much got done once
we were back in Pont de Sables. In contrast Sunday dawned with mist
which burnt off by mid morning to give clear skies and by the afternoon
the temperature was 29 degrees. We took advantage of the fine weather to
cycle to Marmande and then in the afternoon we cycled to Mas d'Agenais
making use of the cool shade along the tow path.
Marmande looked like the main town of the area with lots of shops. The
town is situated on a bend of the Garonne and looked to have been a
major port on the river. We enjoyed going round it as it had retained a
lot of its early architecture and was very picturesque. The cycle ride
to Marmande was a bit tedious as we were just pedalling along a cycle
way parallel to the main road, but again it was a good cycle way deviod
of the glass and potholes that characterise most English cycle ways,
when they exist.
Mas d'Agenais is a much smaller town but equally picturesque and worth
the visit. We bumped into a Australian couple who we had met on
Saturday when we were towing Mango and they pulled in to Caumont in
their camper van just after we had stopped their for lunch. In some
ways it was a mistake leaving Caumont as it had free water and
electricity, but we were better off being convenient for the mechanic
and also there were showers and toilets at Pont de Sables (not many of
the stops on the canal have had toilets to date).
Whilst we were in Pont de Sables we met a couple who had just left the
Med and we got from them a second hand chart and pilot which cover the
Gulf du Lion and give us enough info to allow us to work out what we
will do when we get to the other end of the canal. In exchange we pass
on what we had found out in our pottering around the the Ile de Re, Ile
de Oleron, Charente and Gironde.
The good news on Monday morning was that the problem on the engine was
the carburettor gaskets, was easily fixed and the spare parts would
arrive on Tuesday morning which they duly did and we had a fully
functioning engine back in the boat by lunch time and we were off again
under clear skies and in a warm breeze.
Got to Buzet by evening and managed to find somewhere to tie up for the
night.

engine update

The engineer came and it is a workshop job as it is either the coil or
computer. As we were tied to the bank half way between stops and
opposite the road we decided to move Mango back to the stop where the
engineers workshop is. We found that as the tow path here is in very
good condition and cleared of bushes it is relatively easy (and faster
than paddling) to move Mango by one of us pulling her along using long
bow and stern warps. We lucked out though as a British canal boat who
was going in the same direction offered us a tow to our objective which
have the time it would have taken, especially as there were a couple of
sections where we would have had to paddle.

Into the canals

We left Begles 22nd September on the flood and got up to Castets in good
time to lock in to the start of the canals, in this case the Garonne
lateral canal.
The trip up to the lock was uneventful as it was sunny with little wind
and we had planned to travel on neap tides, with spring tides it can be
a different story with tricky currents to contend with. Spring tides
would also have made being tied up in Begles or on the Bordeaux pontoons
stressful as the current on flood and ebb would be very strong
(4-6 knots at least I expect as we were seeing 2-3 knots). There can
also be a lot of floating debris here, we saw branches and tree trunks
and as we travelled upstream we passed a team of workers clearing the
banks with a chain saw.
The locks on the canal are about 2-3 feet wider than we are so it is a
tight squeeze which makes it slow to get in, mind you it does mean that
we don't swing around much when the lock is filling! We have worked out
a good system for doing the locks (which are DIY so one of us has to be
off the boat whilst the lock is filling) with the ropes led back to the
cockpit for the person in the boat to control via the winches.
A French couple watched us lock through the first 2 locks and began
asking us questions about Mango, it turned out they and their son each
have a Tiki 21. The eclusier (lock keeper) was highly amused by our
additional fenders, empty 5 litre containers.
The night of the 22nd was spent in front of our 4th lock as we did not
get to it before the 7pm lock closing time.
Today, 23rd, we got into the lock shortly after 9am on another warm day
with clear blue skies. We were doing well until about 1630 when after
lifting the engine to clear weed from the leg we could not get it too
restart, even after checking fuel and spark and allowing the engine to
cool down. Helen used the Brompton to go to the next and previous stops
where there were hire boat companies and was lucky enough to find an
engineer who knows Yamaha outboards and we are hoping he will be able
to come and look at it tomorrow. So the early stop and a stroll around
the historic town of Mas d'Agenais has been cancelled.
The canal is very pleasant to travel along as it is tree lined and in
beautiful countryside, the only downside was the noise of the outboard
and this afternoon's failure has further engrained my general view that
sails are better than engines.

Some recent pictures

ile d'Oleron and Cassirion light

Wave in the way

Crutches ready for mast to come down

Mast down 

Ready to Leave Pauillac

Ready to leave Pauillac 2

Vitrezay at low water

Vitrezay at high water

Fishing nets at Conac

Heading for the Canal

Yesterday we moved from Bordeaux to Begles as planned as there is a big
supermarket here as well as a fuel dock so we could get stocked up to go
through the canals. Our second night in Bordeaux was marred by 2 youths
coming on to the boat at around 2230, we think that they thought there
was no one on board as when we shouted at them they ran away. We will
let the Bordeaux authorities know, but until they improve the security
on the dock we would now only use it as a day time stop.

Begles is just upstream from Bordeaux and there is a bus service to
Bordeaux so it is well placed for visiting Bordeaux as well as
reprovisioning. The only downside is that, like Pauillac, the pontoons
are in the stream but unlike Pauillac you moor on the outside so the
boat is vulnerable to any debris floating on the river. The currents on
the river are strong mid tide and the tidal difference between places is
becoming significant: we left Bordeaux on the tail of the ebb and an
hour later when we got to Begles marina there was at least 2 knots of
flood running!

Today we are heading upstream to Castets where we lock in to the Garonne
lateral canal and get out of the currents. We will allow 30 days to get
through the canal but hope to do it quicker than that.

Arrived in Bordeaux

19th September. Another wet trip, this time under power as the mast is
down, took us to Bordeaux today. The current was much stronger than we
expected from the tidal diamonds in the chart of the Gironde and Garonne
(in places about 4 knots instead of the expected 2 or so as this was a
smallish neap tide) so it took us much less time than we expected and we
were in good time for lunch.
We moored to the Ponton de l'honor which is a new pontoon on the left
bank downstream of the pont de pierre and is very handy for the centre
of the town. The harbour master in Pauillac had made a reservation for
us but actually there was no other boats on the pontoon other than an
excursion boats until 2 boats travelling downstream arrived on the ebb.
As it was very wet we did not take any pictures, but the scenery we
passed on the way was a mixture of very rural (complete with fishing
huts), large docks, power stations and other industrial sites and the
odd chateau and ruin. The Vauban fort at Port Medoc was just a green
mound and we were too far away to see what Blaye was like.
This afternoon we had a walk round the centre of Bordeaux and got some
information from the tourist office on things we can go and see
tomorrow. Our first impressions of Bordeaux were very favourable,
though we noticed that it does not have the architectural variety of,
say, London and I suspect that a lot of it was built in a relatively
short space of time or the builders were constrained to match the
original style; we may find out tomorrow!