In the Gironde estuary

After several days of watching the forecasts whilst anchored off
Boyardville (an anchorage we have come to really appreciate) we decided
to head for the Gironde on Thursday 8th Sept as the swell was forecast
to be under 2m and it looked like some nasty weather was heading across
the Atlantic for Friday/Saturday.
The forecast 3-4 with occasional rain turned into a overcast skies with
steady drizzle at the outset, a nasty 2m swell and a force 5 which
slowly moderated. However, we were still sailing in shorts (albeit with
waterproof jackets) as the water and air temperature is such that
getting wet is not the nasty shock it is in the Channel and we would
steam under full waterproofs.
We got to the Gironde entrance early and so hove to to await low water.
The passage in was in the dark but it is very well lit and as the wind
had eased the seas were OK; however, the wind was dead astern so we
ended up motoring which meant a slow journey to Royan where we are now.
Of course today started grey but has turned into a beautiful sunny day
with a light breeze and clear blue skies.
Looking back at the weather information we had we made the correct
decision, we suspect that the cold front which was passing went lower
than expected. We have also come to the conclusion that it is very hard
to predict the weather down here, or at least the way we are using to
interpreting weather information does not work as well.
Royan is an attractive well to do holiday town with lovely beaches. We
will be here a couple of days and are debating whether to spend a bit
more time exploring the Gironde estuary or to hot foot it for Bordeaux
and the canal.

Boyardville

We initially anchored in Boyardville because it was going to be a long
and wet beat to Saint Denis, the optimum place on ile d'Oleron to wait
for good weather to sail down to the Gironde estuary. Once anchored
there we realised that it was miuch more protected than we thought,
especially on higher low waters of neap tides which allowed us to get
closer in to the beach.
The beach is the first we have come across where we would be happy to
dry out. As it is September the beach is not as busy which also helps.
There is a longish walk in to the town which is small with limited
facilities, but there is a very pleasant restraunt / cafe on the beach
and behind the beach is a lot of pleasant woodlands with paths and the
municipal camp site.

Boyardville beach looking towards harbour entrance

What makes the biggest difference here is the weather: blue skies,
strong sun, warm water and wind means that buildings that would look
dreary in Britain (stained by rain and algae) look at worst OK here.
Our only problem whilst on the anchor was getting weather predictions as
we could not get a decent mobile phone connection. What we found is
that it is essential to carry something like an iPhone around with you
as there are cafes and restaurants (such as the one on the beach) which
have Wifi but do not advertise the fact. Going in to the marina at
Boyardville was not really an option as it is small, full and access
restricted to close to high water and we would be wanting to leave
closer to low water.

Left Rochefort

We left Rochefort on Saturday 3rd Sept hoping for good weather to get us in to the Gironde. Below are some pictures we took on the way

One of L'Hermione's boats passing the Cordierie Royale

Waiting pontoon in front of the end of the Cordiere Royale

 
Unfortunately, a low pressure system is going through which has meant strong winds and a biggish swell; so, as we have not been in to the Gironde before we decided to anchor off Boyardville (Fort Boyard is in sight) and awaiting more settled weather.
The coast of ile d'Oleron on this, the Northern, side is sandy with lots of trees so looks very appealing. It does have the inevitable mussel and oyster farms, including two in the channel, which means one has to be
circumspect about going close inshore. There is also the inevitable sailing school, which has provided us with some entertainment.
Today is Monday and we are monitoring the weather forecast to see if
tomorrow will be settled enough for us to leave.

Views of Rochefort

Below are some more photos we took in Rochefort.

Starboard side of L'Hermione

Mango at other end of visitors pontoon facing 17th century naval warehouses

Rochefort harbour lock gates near high water on a big spring tide

View from the suspension bridge at Tonnay Charente

Ship passing whilst we are on waiting pontoon

Latest

Still in Rochefort but aiming to leave soon.  We now have a decent size awning made from a white tarp and have refitted the tillerpilot to give us electronic self steering to complement the wind vane steering.  The linkage for the tillerpilot is a recycled 49er tiller extension (thanks Matt) so is light but it is quite long so there is some play and we will need to do some trials to see how well it works. Below is a photo of Mango with the new awning up.

Moored in Rochefort harbour with awning

 

 

We have been in Rochefort longer than expected, but have had a side trip to Cognac to visit friends of friends who live there which was great.  We have also both passed the CEVNI tests, though have not found somewhere to print of the certificates yet!

Autumn in the air

Woke up this morning to a nip in the air and mist curling of the river
as it flowed passed the harbour entrance on the ebb. The concert last
night in a park next to the harbour was OK after the sound check
leading us to expect that the bass would be shaking the rivets out of
the mast.
Tested our 12 volt kettle yesterday - works but interminably slow so is
really only of use if we are short of fuel for the stove and there is
lots of power going in to the batteries. Also replaced the carpet in
the galley with some material for bathroom and kitchen floors (with
dolphins on it) which we hope will be more hygenic and survive being
deluged with sea water better.

Rochefort update

Just had a night of heavy rain showers which we thought had ended and
THEN, just when we thought it was all clearing, we got with almost no
warning a vicious squall come over complete with big hail stones. The
upside is that it looks as if my leak curing efforts have been succesful!
Helen has passed the test for the CEVNI qualification we need to go
through the canals so we are getting close to being ready to go. I will
also have a go at the test after a bit of revision now the books are free.